Designer: @furifuri.amigurumi
Step into the enchanting world of Shrek with our free amigurumi pattern featuring the iconic green ogre! Crafted by @furifuri.amigurumi, this project stands at 20 cm tall and offers a moderate level of difficulty, making it perfect for experienced crocheters seeking a challenging yet accessible endeavor. Shrek, the lovable protagonist of DreamWorks’ famous film series, comes to life in this crochet rendition. With his signature shades of green, beige, light brown, and dark brown, this charming amigurumi perfectly captures the essence of the beloved character that has captivated audiences of all ages worldwide. Beyond being a symbol of bravery and determination, Shrek is renowned for his noble heart and generous spirit. Throughout the film saga, Shrek imparts valuable lessons about the importance of love, friendship, and self-acceptance. From his unlikely friendship with Donkey to his adventures with Princess Fiona, Shrek’s journey is filled with humor, heart, and memorable moments that have become iconic in popular culture.
Recreating your own crocheted Shrek will not only provide hours of creative fun but also allow you to explore new techniques and enhance your crochet skills. This intermediate-level project will challenge you to master various stitches and techniques, helping you become a more skilled crocheter. Once completed, your Shrek amigurumi can become a cherished treasure in your home, a special gift for a loved one, or a standout piece in your amigurumi collection. Its unique charm and unforgettable personality are sure to add a touch of magic to any space.
Embark on your crochet journey today with our free Shrek pattern and dive into the wonderful adventure of crocheting this beloved character. With detailed and clear instructions, along with a complete list of materials, crocheting your own ogre has never been easier or more rewarding
MR: Magic Ring
Rnd: Round
Ch: Chain
[…]: Number of stitches in the row
Sc: Single crochet
Sl st: Slip stitch
BLO: Back loop only
FLO: Front loop only
Inc: Increase
Inc3: Three single crochets in the same stitch
Dec: Decrease
Hdc: Half double crochet
Dc: Double crochet
Tr: Treble crochet
The arms consist of two separate pieces, which are then joined together.
With green yarn:
Rnd 1) 6 sc in the MR
Rnd 2) 6 inc [12]
Rnd 3) 12 sc
Rnd 4) (2 sc, 1 dec) x3 [9]
Rnd 5) (1 dec, 1 sc) x3 [6]
Rnd 6 and 7) 6 sc – 2 rounds
Switch to beige yarn:
Rnd 8) (1 sc, 1 inc) x3 [9]
Finish off, weave in the excess yarn, and set aside.
Now, with beige yarn:
Rnd 1) Ch 12 (loosely)
Rnd 2) Join the ends by making 1 sc, then make another 11 sc [12]
Rnd 3) (4 sc, 1 dec) x2 [10]
Rnd 4) 1 dec, 8 sc [9]
Place the previously made part inside the current piece and align the stitches (see the guide image beside). Then, crochet by picking up stitches from both pieces together:
Rnd 5) 9 sc
From here, continue as usual:
Rnds 6 to 9) 9 sc – 4 rounds
Rnd 10) 1 dec, 7 sc [8]
Finish off and weave in the excess yarn.
With dark brown yarn:
Chain 7. The first round will be worked in an oval crochet, around the base chains. Begin in the second stitch from the hook.
Rnd 1) 5 sc, 1 inc3, turn the piece, 4 sc, 1 inc [14]
Rnd 2) 1 inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 6 sc [18]
Rnd 3) 18 sc in the third loop – See below
Rnd 4) 18 sc
Glue a piece of acetate, cardboard, or plastic to the base of the feet to make them firm and stand on their own.
Rnd 5) 6 sc, 4 dec, 4 sc [14]
Rnd 6) 5 sc, 3 dec, 3 sc [11]
To make this stitch, we use the so-called “third loop” of the single crochet. In it, we loop through the loop formed behind the main loops of the stitch. Refer to the attached image.
TIP: If you encounter any difficulty making this stitch, you can substitute it with the regular single crochet stitch.
Switch to light brown yarn:
Rnd 7: BLO 11sc
Rnd 8 and 9: 11sc – 2 rounds
Rnd 10: 10sc, 1inc [12]
Rnd 11: 12sc – Stuff
Rnd 12: 11sc, 1inc [13]
Rnd 13: 13sc
Rnd 14: 12sc, 1inc [14]
Finish the first leg. Make 6sc more on the second one (or the necessary amount of stitches) to reach the side of that leg.
We will start the body from there.
But before moving on to the body, we will add the detail of Shrek’s shoes. With dark brown yarn, insert the hook into the first stitch of round 7 of the leg, in the visible loops. Make:
Rnd 1: FLO: (2sc, 1inc) x3, 2sc [14]
Close with 1slst, cut and hide the yarn ends.
This step is optional: with thinner dark brown yarn, wrap round 6 of the legs and tie a knot in the front to simulate a lace.
Starting from the second leg, make 3 chains. With the amigurumi’s feet facing forward (backing you), join the legs:
Rnd 15: 14sc on the first leg, 3sc in the chains, 14sc on the second leg, 3sc in the chains [34]
Rnds 16 to 18: 34sc – 3 rounds
Switch to beige yarn:
Rnd 19: BLO: 34slst
Switch to dark brown yarn:
Rnd 20: BLO: 34slst
Rnd 21: BLO: 7sc, 3inc, 4sc, (1inc, 1sc) x3, 4sc, 3inc, 5sc, 1dec [42]
Switch back to beige:
Make a round in BLO of 42slst. This round is not included in the count, it only serves to smooth the color change.
Continue:
Rnd 22: FLO: 16sc, (1inc, 3sc) x3, 14sc [45]
In the loops of the slip stitches made previously. The extra round will disappear.
Rnd 23: 7sc, 3dec, 19sc, 3dec, 7sc [39]
Rnd 24: 39sc
Rnd 25: 11sc, (1dec, 2sc) x5, 8sc [34]
Rnds 26 and 27: 34sc – 2 rounds
Rnd 28: 8sc, 1dec, 16sc, 1dec, 6sc [32]
Rnd 29: (6sc, 1dec) x4 [28]
Now, we are going to attach the arms to the body. You may need to adjust the number of stitches before and after the arms to align them on the sides of the body.
Continue making single crochet stitches along the body until you reach the side. Then, insert the hook into a stitch of the arm, from the outside to the inside. Crochet all the stitches of the arm and then move to the next stitch of the body, the stitch following the one you crocheted before the arm.
Rnd 30) 9sc, 8sc in one arm, 13sc, 8sc in the other arm, 6sc [44] – Refer to the guide images above.
Fill the body with stuffing and continue:
Rnd 31) (2sc, 1dec) x11 [33]
Rnd 32) (1sc, 1dec) x11 [22]
Switch to the green yarn:
Make a round in the back loop only (BLO) of 22sc. This round is not counted, it just smoothens the color change (see the adjacent images). Continue:
Rnd 33) 22sc – In both loops of the previous single crochet stitches. The extra round will disappear.
Rnd 34) (1sc, 1dec) x7, 1sc [15]
Rnd 35) (3sc, 1dec) x3 [12]
Rnds 36 to 44) 12sc – 9 rounds
Insert a piece of the hot glue stick into the neck to secure it and close it with an invisible slip stitch.
To finish the body, we’ll make the hem of Shrek’s shirt.
Turn the body upside down. With the beige yarn, insert the needle into the last stitch of round 19 of the body, in the visible loops.
Make:
Rnds 1 and 2) 34sc – 2 rounds
Finish off and hide the yarn ends.
The vest is worked in flat crochet. At the end of each row, make 1 chain to turn the work.
With the dark brown yarn, make 31 chains. Then do:
Rnd 1) 30sc
Rnd 2) 4sc, 7ch, skip 6 stitches, 10sc, 7ch, skip 6 stitches, 4sc [32]
Rnd 3) 32sc
Without cutting the yarn, make single crochet stitches along the entire edge of the piece. Also, make single crochet stitches across the top, as well as on the opposite side.
Finish off and hide the yarn ends.
Place the vest on the body.
Note: the last row made is facing down. The top of the vest is the thickest part.
Cut a piece of brown embroidery floss. Thread the floss from one side to the other of the top part of the vest, passing the needle from inside to outside. Make a centralized knot at the front and cut the ends.
With the green yarn:
Rnd 1) 6sc in the Magic Ring (MR)
Rnd 2) 6inc [12]
Rnd 3) (1sc, 1inc) x6 [18]
Rnd 4) (2sc, 1inc) x6 [24]
Rnd 5) (3sc, 1inc) x6 [30]
Rnd 6) (4sc, 1inc) x6 [36]
Rnd 7) (5sc, 1inc) x6 [42]
Rnd 8) 42sc
Rnd 9) (6sc, 1inc) x6 [48]
Rnd 10 to 12) 48sc – 3 rounds
Rnd 13) (7sc, 1inc) x6 [54]
Rnd 14 to 16) 54sc – 3 rounds
Rnd 17) (8sc, 1inc) x6 [60]
Rnd 18 to 20) 60sc – 3 rounds
Rnd 21) (4sc, 1dec) x10 [50]
Rnd 22) (7sc, 1dec) x5, 5sc [45]
Rnd 23) 45sc
Insert the eyes with locks between rounds 15-16, with approximately 8 visible stitches between them.
Rnd 24) (6sc, 1dec) x5, 5sc [40]
Rnd 25) (2sc, 1dec) x10 [30]
Rnd 26) (3sc, 1dec) x6 [24]
Rnd 27) (2sc, 1dec) x6 [18]
Rnd 28) (1sc, 1dec) x6 [12]
Finish off and leave a tail for sewing.
Do not close the head. The opening is used to fit the neck.
With the green yarn:
Rnd 1) Leave a long starting tail before the magic ring, and make 6 chains.
Rnd 2) Join the ends with 1 sc, and make another 5 sc [6]
Rnd 3 and 4) 6 sc – 2 rounds
Rnd 5) FLO: (1 sc, 1 inc) x3 [9]
Rnd 6) 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 inc of tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 3 sc, 1 sl st [10]
Finish off and weave in the excess yarn.
Place the ears between rounds 12-13, with 5 stitches of distance between the eyes.
Sew them using the starting yarn tail.
With the green yarn, embroider the nose between rounds 17-18, covering 3 stitches and centering it with the eyes.
Then, make some horizontal lines followed by vertical lines throughout the previous embroidery.
This is where we bring the amigurumi to life! The first step is to sink the eyes. This step is essential for giving a sweeter expression, as it provides depth to the face. After sinking the eyes, we’ll move on to embroidery. With white thread, embroider the outer edge of the eyes. You can reinforce the embroidery once more if you wish. I opt to reinforce it to give a more almond-shaped look to the gaze. With the same green thread used in the body, embroider a line simulating the eyelid. Go from the inner corner of the eye to the end of the white embroidery. Now, with a finer black thread (I used Clea thread), embroider the outline just below the green line of the eyelid.
Now let’s do the eyebrows. We’ll use brown embroidery thread.
Here, we’ll have two options: a softer eyebrow and a bolder one. Choose the one you like best!
VERSION 1:
With the help of pins, mark the embroidery area: between rounds 11-12 and 12-13, covering 5 stitches.
At the point closest to the corner of the eye, in round 11, embroider two small vertical lines, covering 1 stitch. Refer to the reference image.
Now, embroider a diagonal line from row 12-13 to row 11, covering 4 stitches, with the end of the eyebrow going downwards. Reinforce the embroidery as many times as necessary.
VERSION 2:
For this version, we’ll embroider in the opposite direction. Refer to the instructions on the next page.
With the help of pins, mark the embroidery area: between rounds 11-12 and 12-13, covering 5-6 stitches.
At the point closest to the corner of the eye, in round 12, embroider two small vertical lines, covering 1 stitch. Refer to the reference image.
Now, embroider a diagonal line from round 12-13 to round 11, covering 4 stitches, with the end of the eyebrow going upwards. Reinforce the embroidery as many times as necessary.
Now let’s embroider the cheeks. With the help of pins, mark the embroidery area: Rounds 18 and 19, covering three stitches, starting from the direction where the white eye embroidery was done. Refer to the guide image below. Using pink embroidery thread, embroider diagonal lines from round 18 to 19; make three lines. On the other cheek, reverse the direction.
Finally, we’ll finish by applying blush. I used dry pastel chalk; you can use the same material or adapt it to what you have on hand, such as diluted fabric paint or makeup. For the cheeks, choose a very light pink and apply it over and around the embroidery. With a burnt pink tone, apply it on the nose and just above it, lightly. Using the same color, also apply it inside the ears.
To complete your amigurumi, place the head onto the neck. Gently twist until it fits snugly. Then, using the excess yarn from the head, sew it onto the neck.
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